West Cork
an unlikely exotic paradise
My family arrived in Ireland on a boat via Cork, and we left for England on a boat via Dublin. I don’t remember the entry, but I do remember the emotional exit through Dún Laoghaire. Some 30+ years later, I ended up taking the same route unintentionally. Ireland shaped so much of my upbringing and childhood. It is a country that I call home in a true sense of belonging, despite being in the Western Hemisphere. I return to Ireland regularly, but never to Co. Cork. But driving around the place for the week of my birthday, it felt like a calling or a homecoming.
Ireland suffers from the same tourism malaise that Pakistan, my homeland, does- domineering neighbours with better marketing for tourism. However, if you want a richer, slower, and calmer experience, Ireland is the best place to go. It’s steeped in ancient history and mythology, which the people on the island celebrate, such as Imbolc, the spring equinox, and Lughnasadh, the harvest, which is still widely celebrated in farming circles. And it is farming that shapes the land in this country, and West Cork, where I found myself last week, is all farmland for miles. Driving along the Wild Atlantic Way, you’ll find the sea to one side of the road and farms of sheep, cattle and the occasional horse on the other side. The signal is slow to nonexistent, and the light is mythical no matter what the weather. However, I found myself in an unexpectedly sunny, rain-free week, which is a rare occurrence, but it felt like one of the gifts from the universe in a birthday week.
If you know Irish history in the slightest, you will know that emigration is a huge part of the story of this island. Colonisation and the centuries-long stripping of resources by the British led to poverty, famine, and then unrest in the northern part of the island, resulting in steady streams of people leaving for a better life.
However, after Ireland’s membership in the European Union and the Good Friday Agreement, the country became a technology and tax haven, with many multinational corporations headquartered there. This has resulted in prosperity, although its farming and agricultural traditions are still deeply embedded in the hearts of its people. The result is a unique culture, modernity steeped in tradition, and this is precisely why Ireland as a travel destination is not to be overlooked. There is a trend to travel to far-flung places. Japan, for instance, is so popular amongst my peers; yet Ireland offers an equally immersive, traditional experience. Or we flock to island-hop in the Mediterranean, but there are islands with equally stunning beaches and local produce to entice the taste buds. Of course, I am biased; Ireland was my home and refuge for most of my childhood, and it is still my refuge in many ways. I gravitate towards different parts of the country anytime the political situation in the UK gets volatile (which has been frequently, since Brexit).
If you feel enticed to go to West Cork yourself there are few things to keep in mind; everything (and I mean everything) is slower, it will take you longer to get places, you will make conversations that will take longer because it’s soul talk rather than small talk, you will be stop and smell the roses (or whatever breathtaking nature that is before you because you are never far from that in Ireland); cash is king in most places and some places (like the bus or boats) only do cash; you have to go for a swim in one of the many body of waters which you will be spoiled by (this country is a swimmer’s paradise); you’ll eat some of the best western European food, especially dairy, of your life because care has been taken to preserve the traditional food practices like cheese making and fish preserving.
I really enjoyed the cultural commentary cum travel guide I created after my Doha trip in February for Panayiota Soutis TGITE, and I feel compelled to do the same for West Cork.
Books and writings
For me, travelling to a place begins long before I physically get there, usually through reading. I would go as far as to say that I visit places I’ve read about in books or articles and seen in art. So, naturally, it feels appropriate to share the works which inspired the trip.
West of West, an artist’s encounter with West Cork by Brian Lalor. A lyrical meditation on Lalor’s travel and painting of West Cork. It’s a beautiful place setting and full of paintings inspired by the region's raw beauty.
Up there, the Last by Max Jones is a newsletter about ancient foodways practised within Irish culture, particularly in West Cork, some of which are on the brink of extinction. He writes about traditional dairy farming, interviews makers, and the accompanying photos are truly enticing.
Over the water, essays on islands by Daunt Books It’s often easy to forget that Ireland is an island. It’s probably the roughness of the harsh waters or the weather which results from being suspended in the Atlantic Ocean. But if you scratch past Ireland’s rain clouds, it exhibits island life tendencies with many islands off its shores. On a sunny, clear day, you would mistake Ireland for a tropical paradise. Snead Gleeson’s essay in this anthology series, titled As in a Sea Parenthesis, is about islands, particularly those off the coast of Ireland. It made me reflect on how I had never ventured beyond the coast of Ireland, and it inspired my birthday day trip to Garnish Island off the coast of West Cork.
Ireland is small, but it takes time to get places. There are buses, but you need a car outside cities and towns. So, I arrived at Cork airport to pick up my rental and drove towards West Cork on country lanes. The signal dipped in and out, and I had nothing but my music and thoughts to occupy me. The nature hits you so suddenly that my nervous system began to reset into a calmer state of mind. Based on conversations with friends who are familiar with the area and recommendations from local accounts I follow on Instagram, Ballydehob became my location for the week.
Places to stay
I found this wonderful family-run cabin on Instagram while I was deep in training my algorithm to show me more of West Cork. It’s a gem set in the fields with its own sauna and outdoor bath. The family who run the place, Monica and Martin, were the kindest hosts and are keen growers of a variety of fruit, vegetables, and herbs in their garden and greenhouse.
I spent my days in the fully equipped cabin reading, writing, cooking, and in the sauna, all to the sounds of birds and sheep. It was perfect.
Owned by a local couple, Simon and Dede Ronan, Native is a sustainability design enthusiast's dream. Beautifully designed by Simon, using repurposed Irish raw materials, and furnished with local linen and wool. The ethos of the place is to shine light on and preserve Irish heritage. There is the main house, garden cabins, and a sauna, with a breakfast menu created to make Irish dairy the star of the show, and their granola is famous. It’s definitely a place one goes to escape and rewind, although I’d argue being in this part of Ireland itself is an escape.
Native is more than a hospitality business; it is a local community information hub and gathering spot. I’ve been following them on Instagram for a short while, and they share upcoming events and community stories, as well as hosting a spring-summer dinner series for guests.
Set on the River Ilen in the charming town of Skibbereen, West Cork Hotel is a traditional Irish inn. Its proprietor, Maureen, is a matriarch who runs the place like a welcoming family home. While I did not get to stay here on this trip, I did have the pleasure of meeting Maureen on an impromptu birthday dinner in my honour, thrown by my hosts at Casa Clarig. I was taken by the Irish charm of a meal of the most succulent roast lamb, three types of Irish potatoes, and the freshest spring greens, with a homemade Irish mint sauce (iykyk) and gravy. When I say the Irish hospitality and community are strong, this is what I mean. I was so taken by Maureen’s warmth at this dinner that I feel obliged to return to West Cork for a future trip to stay at the West Cork Hotel.
Places to swim
If it’s swimming you are into, you are going to be spoiled for choice for the best spot. I was lucky to have great weather throughout my week in Ireland, a rare occurrence but a welcome opportunity to take full advantage of.
Tragumna Beach
After years of austerity, the Irish lifestyle now rivals the Scandinavian quality of life with access to so much nature, open waters and woods, which are ideal for a sauna and a cold swim. You will find many sauna stations on beaches across Ireland, but this beach is the one closest to where I was staying in Ballydehob, a stunning swim spot. A small beach with a car park, an ice cream hut (in the summer months- June onwards) and a pub nearby, it’s perfect for a peaceful swim, sauna and ice cream afterwards.
Blue Pool
A small nature reserve and a ferry docking point for Garnish Island (see below) is also a beautiful swimming spot amongst the seals. It’s a 5 min walk from Glengarrif town’s Main Street, where you can grab lunch, shop in the local wool stores for Aran jumpers (at half the price compared to other places), and get one of the best cone 99 (trust me on this one).
Lough Hyne
A body of water where locals swim, and it’s also a great place for water activities like kayaking. The water is clear and addictive. On weekends, you will find groups of people picnicking, spending the day swimming and snacking, which made me reminisce about my childhood day trips to Glendalough in Co Wicklow.
Places to eat and drink
Ireland is a European dining destination. It is a hill I am willing to die on. Cut off from mainland Europe and rich in agricultural and dairy practices, and waves of immigration from places like Pakistan, Poland, Nigeria, Turkey, Libya, China, Mexico, Brazil and beyond. Or the Irish returnees from distant destinations have brought back flavours from these places. This has led to Ireland becoming home to a cuisine that marries local produce with techniques from different cultures. Eating out is a pleasure, but I would also argue for cooking if that is something you are into. I did a mix of the two.
Dede in Baltimore is a Turkish restaurant that consistently tops Ireland's best restaurant guides. Chef Ahmed Dede and his team consistently push the boundaries of culinary creativity without compromising the authenticity of Turkish or Irish flavours.
Chestnut in Ballydehob is the brainchild of Polish chef Rob Krawczyk, who pays homage to his Polish heritage using a wealth of the Irish larder.
Connolly’s of Leap- you wouldn’t come to Ireland to eat pizzas, but you would be wrong. It was a perfect lunch after a morning of swimming in Lough Hyne. This is also a brilliant music venue and a great pub, with plenty of pints to wash down the pizzas.
Hayes’ Bar and Kitchen is a seafood restaurant with the freshest daily catches. Menu changes daily, but everything is chef’s kiss!
Nighthawk’s – nowadays, fish and chips feel so Irish that one would think it is a local culinary offering. Still, of course, it comes from the British, who introduced it (after Jewish emigrants from Eastern Europe and Russia brought it to Britain). Up until recently, Ireland was a deeply Catholic country steeped in religious rituals, including abstaining from meat on Fridays. Later, with the British embracing curry during their colonisation of the Indian subcontinent, curry sauce became a thing in chip shops across Britain, including Ireland, which was still a colony at the time. Having lived in England, Ireland and Wales, I would argue that curry chips are a bigger deal in Ireland than elsewhere. When it comes to the chip shop, everyone has a preferred order, and mine is haddock with chips, with salt, or just curry chips. Nighthawk’s has perfected the recipe.
Supervalu (Skibbereen Town) and Skibbereen Farmer market (on a Saturday) - if you do plan to cook on your trip, the Supervalu is a good place to stock up on groceries, although their café for tea and a cake is a worthy pit stop. If you happen to end up in this part of the world on a weekend, the farmers' market is a destination in itself. Local farms come to sell their produce and cheeses. Each stall is better than the next.
Places to visit on day trips
Ilnacullin (Granish Island)
A horticultural gem in a series of gardens set on an island off the coast of Glengarrif, Bantry Bay. Using the word exotic to describe Ireland seems misplaced, but then again, most people haven’t been to Garnish Island. It began life as a private island owned by the Bryce family, who worked with architect Harold Peto to utilise the island’s mild micro-humid climate to create an exotic paradise that wouldn’t be out of place in the tropics. You need to reach the island by ferry from Glengarriff, and I would recommend spending the day exploring the gardens, ranging from Italian to Greek. There’s a small cafe that serves a menu of soups, sandwiches, and cakes, but my personal highlight was a warm scone for breakfast on my birthday, with cream, Irish butter, and local jam. Much like Violet Bryce, a hundred years before me, I have fallen completely in love with the place, and I’m keenly plotting my return.
Mazien Head
Ireland’s southern most tip which offers stunning views over the Atlantic. Make a day of it with a picnic from the farmers' market in Skibbereen.
Cleire Goats Farm
Set on another island off the coast of Bantry Bay, Cape Clear Island. With just 100 inhabitants, it truly feels like a place to yourself. The farm specialises in raw milk ice cream, butter, and the most delectable goats' cheese. If the day is clear (and it was when I visited), you can walk and swim to your heart's content.
Ballymaloe House and Cookery School
A bonus inclusion, since it is technically not in West Cork, but I did spend one night and a whole day at the cookery school gardens and farm. Much has been said and written about the Ballymaloe estate and farm, which you might expect not to live up to the hype. Yet I was surprised by the house's beauty and the staff's friendliness. Yes, it’s slightly pricey but worth the splurge to stay the night and have a meal in its dining room overlooking the gardens. However, if you are looking for a day trip and a more affordable option, the cafe adjacent to the house is lovely for tea and snacks. The thing that you shouldn’t miss is a walk around the cookery school's gardens. They are special as described. I spent most of my morning wandering the gardens and taking in the aromas from the kitchen, where the students were hard at work. My personal highlight was Shell House, a garden created in the 90s by Blott Kerr Wilson. It’s made entirely from shells and modelled after the Alhambra Palace in Granada. It felt like stepping into another world.
Driving around West Cork felt like being transport back to the Celtic Tiger years of prosperity from my childhood in the 90s and 00s. The towns are alive, and abuzz with independent businesses in each village centre.
Like every other country in the world, Ireland is not without its problems. There is an increasingly anti-immigrant sentiment, and with racism rising across the cities, it feels worrying. There is also a housing crisis, which makes finding a place to live a horrendous process for young people, such that once again, there is a wave of emigration, towards Canada, Australia and the Gulf states of the Middle East. Despite these challenges, there is an optimism and a sense that life needs to be lived, shared by everyone from the Irish people themselves and the migrants who call Ireland home now.
It’s a sentiment that isn’t always there in the UK, where I live now. I don’t mean to keep comparing the two countries, but there’s a stark contrast of mood and energy. I think it has to do with the Irish people’s longstanding struggles and endurance for hardships, and the English people’s longstanding history of colonialism and easy access to resources, which were gained through oppression. We talk about reparations to the colonies a lot, and if we were to put it in terms of prosperity and welfare, then I think the Irish people may be living a better life than the country that colonised them.
Wherever in Ireland you choose to visit, know that it’s an underrated place because everything is slower and calmer. There’s a warmth in this country that nowhere else in Western Europe has.
